The days are getting shorter, the temperatures are finally moderating, and chilly nights are becoming more frequent. You know what that means? Bulb time!
Every fall, I look forward to planting spring-flowering bulbs. After months of gardening, it might seem strange to be thinking about next spring, but planting bulbs now is one of the easiest ways to guarantee a colorful start to the gardening season. For step by step lasagna planting, a layered bulb container, continue to the end of the post.
I have had excellent results with bulbs from Longfield Gardens, which offers a wonderful selection of tulips, daffodils, alliums, and other spring-flowering bulbs for containers as well as the normal flower bed plantings.
There is something immensely satisfying about filling a large pot with tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and other spring beauties, then tucking it away for the winter. Months later, when the garden is just waking up, that unassuming pot transforms into a spectacular display of flowers.
Why I Love Growing Bulbs in Containers
I plant bulbs in my garden beds every year, adding to existing displays and experimenting with new varieties. But I also plant dozens of bulbs in containers that I can strategically place around my patio, walkways, and entrances and bring inside to enjoy.
Some years, especially when autumn has been unusually dry, digging in our heavy Mid-Atlantic clay soil is like trying to excavate concrete! Planting in containers filled with loose potting mix is certainly easier on my back. But convenience isn’t the only reason I love this method.
Containers allow me to bring spring color exactly where I want it, whether that means a cheerful pot of miniature daffodils by the back door or a dramatic display of tulips on the patio.
There are plenty of advantages:
- Instant color: Move containers into prominent positions just as the bulbs begin blooming.
- Experimentation: Try unusual varieties and color combinations without committing valuable garden space.
- Fragrance: Place hyacinths and other fragrant bulbs near entrances where you can enjoy their perfume.
- Protection from deer: Keep tulips on a protected porch or patio where deer are less likely to browse.
- Extended bloom: Combine bulbs with different flowering times for weeks of color.
- Small-space gardening: Even gardeners with only a balcony or patio can enjoy a spectacular spring bulb display.
And perhaps best of all, you can pack a surprising number of bulbs into a single container.
Planting for Spring Bloom vs. Forcing Bulbs
There is an important distinction between growing bulbs in outdoor containers and forcing bulbs indoors.
Forcing involves manipulating growing conditions to encourage bulbs to flower earlier than they normally would, often in the middle of winter. Depending on the bulb, this may require a carefully controlled chilling period.
When I plant bulbs in containers for outdoor spring displays, I’m not trying to make them bloom ahead of schedule. I’m simply giving them a comfortable place to develop roots, experience the cold temperatures they need, and emerge naturally when spring arrives.
Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses, and many other spring bulbs need a prolonged period of cool temperatures to develop properly. Most commonly grown tulips and hyacinths need approximately 12–16 weeks of chilling, although requirements vary by species and cultivar.
Our Mid-Atlantic winters generally provide sufficient chilling naturally. The challenge with containers isn’t usually providing enough cold. It’s protecting the bulbs and their roots from excessively low temperatures and repeated freezing and thawing.
If you want flowers blooming indoors during the winter, visit my post, Bringing Spring In—Forcing Bulbs.
Choosing the Best Bulbs for Containers
Almost any spring-flowering bulb can be grown in a container, but some are especially well suited to this method.
Tulips: My favorites for bold color. Triumph tulips and many shorter varieties perform beautifully in pots. Choose varieties with sturdy stems if your containers will be exposed to wind.
Daffodils: Dependable, cheerful, and generally avoided by deer and rodents. Miniature varieties such as ‘Tête-à -Tête’ are especially attractive in smaller containers.
Hyacinths: Nothing compares to their fragrance. A pot of hyacinths near the back door is one of spring’s great pleasures.
Crocuses: Among the earliest flowers to appear, often blooming while the garden still looks wintry. They are also valuable early forage for bees when weather permits.
Grape hyacinths (Muscari): Their clusters of blue or purple flowers are wonderful companions for tulips and daffodils.
Miniature iris: Iris reticulata and its relatives are delightful early bloomers. One of my favorites is ‘Katherine Hodgkin’, with its intricate pale blue and yellow flowers.
Potting Bulbs Made Easy
You don’t need any special equipment to create beautiful containers of spring bulbs. A good pot, quality potting mix, and healthy bulbs are all you need.
1. Choose the Right Container
I prefer sturdy plastic or frost-resistant containers because they tolerate winter weather better than ordinary terra-cotta.
Terra-cotta absorbs moisture and can crack when that moisture freezes. If you love the look of decorative pottery, plant your bulbs in inexpensive plastic nursery pots and slip them into your decorative containers when the flowers emerge. For large tulips and daffodils, choose a container approximately 12–16 inches deep or deeper, especially if you plan to layer several varieties.
Whatever you choose, drainage holes are essential. Bulbs sitting in waterlogged soil are likely to rot.
2. Use Quality Potting Mix
Never fill containers with heavy garden soil. It compacts easily and drains poorly.
Use a high-quality container potting mix containing ingredients such as perlite, pine bark, or other materials that encourage good drainage.
Bulbs already contain the energy needed for their initial growth and flowering, so they don’t require heavy fertilization at planting time.
3. Pack Them In!
One of the advantages of container planting is that bulbs can be spaced much more closely than they would be in a garden bed.
I arrange mine close together, almost like eggs in a carton, but without allowing them to touch. The result is a much fuller and more dramatic floral display.
For a single layer of bulbs, planting depth depends on the type of bulb and the size of the container. Large bulbs such as tulips generally benefit from several inches of potting mix above them and adequate room underneath for root development. Small bulbs can be planted more shallowly.
Avoid leaving large tulip or daffodil bulbs with only their tips covered in an outdoor pot, particularly in areas with cold winters.
4. Water Thoroughly
After planting, water the container thoroughly to settle the potting mix around the bulbs and encourage root development.
During winter, the soil should remain lightly moist but never soggy. Check periodically, particularly if the pots are stored under cover where they receive no natural precipitation.
5. Finish the Surface
I sometimes top my containers with decorative gravel, grit, or moss. For an even more attractive fall display, I plant pansies or other shallow-rooted cool-season plants over the bulbs.
These plants provide interest while the bulbs are dormant and can complement the emerging flowers in spring.
The Secret to Successful Overwintering
This is probably the most important part of growing spring bulbs in containers.
Bulbs planted directly in the ground are insulated by the surrounding soil. Bulbs in above-ground containers are much more exposed, especially around the sides of the pots. In Maryland, our winters can alternate between relatively mild days and sudden periods of bitter cold. These temperature swings can be particularly hard on container-grown bulbs.
The goal is to provide the chilling bulbs need while protecting their roots from extreme cold and repeated freezing and thawing.
Where I Store My Bulb Containers
Over the years, I’ve experimented with several methods.
I’ve overwintered containers in a cold frame, tucked them against the house in a sheltered mudroom, and wrapped pots with bubble wrap for additional insulation. All have worked, depending on the severity of the winter.
Here are some options:
Cold frame: An excellent solution for protecting pots while allowing them to experience natural winter temperatures. Be sure to ventilate on sunny days so temperatures don’t rise excessively. A temporary low tunnel made of PVC supports and insulating plastic works too.
Unheated garage or shed: A good choice if temperatures remain consistently cool without prolonged, severe freezing. A thermometer is helpful for monitoring conditions.
Sheltered outdoor location: Group pots together near a protected wall, preferably out of strong winter winds. Insulate the sides with leaves, straw, or other materials when necessary.
Bubble wrap: Wrapping the outside of containers can provide additional insulation. Keep drainage holes clear and avoid trapping water against the pot.
A consistently cool environment, roughly 35–45°F, is useful for many commonly grown spring bulbs during their chilling period. However, the exact temperature requirements vary, and not every unheated garage or shed will remain within that range.
I generally leave my containers outdoors through much of the fall, allowing roots to establish naturally, then provide additional protection when prolonged freezing weather is forecast.
Protecting Bulbs from Hungry Critters
Squirrels, mice, voles, and other rodents can make quick work of newly planted bulbs, particularly tulips and crocuses.
A piece of hardware cloth secured over the top of the container is one of the simplest ways to protect them. Remove it or provide sufficient clearance when shoots begin emerging.
Daffodils are generally less appealing to rodents, making them a good choice where digging animals are a persistent problem.
One additional caution: Avoid storing bulbs near ripening fruit or in a garage where cars are regularly running. Ethylene gas from fruit and vehicle exhaust can interfere with flower development. A well-ventilated, separate storage area is preferable.
Bringing Your Bulbs Out in Spring
One of my favorite moments in late winter is discovering those first pointed green shoots pushing through the potting mix.
After months of looking at bare containers, those little green tips are a welcome sign that spring is approaching.
As growth begins, gradually move stored containers into brighter light, protecting tender shoots from sudden extreme cold.
Once the bulbs are actively growing, they will need more frequent watering. Containers can dry out surprisingly quickly during sunny, breezy spring weather. When the flowers begin opening, move the pots into their starring positions.
A pot of tulips that looked rather ordinary all winter can suddenly become the centerpiece of your patio.
Make a Lasagna Pot for Weeks of Spring Flowers
If you want a truly spectacular spring display, try making a lasagna pot.
No pasta involved!
Lasagna planting simply means arranging different types of bulbs in layers within one deep container. Larger bulbs are generally planted toward the bottom, with smaller bulbs placed in layers above them.
By choosing varieties with different flowering times, you can create a succession of blooms from a single pot, potentially lasting six weeks or longer depending on the varieties and spring weather.
I’ve made these containers for years, and they are always a hit. I’ve even taught garden club workshops where participants assembled their own layered bulb containers.
What You’ll Need
For a generous display, use a container approximately 18 inches in diameter and at least 16 inches deep, with drainage holes.
For one of my layered pots, I used:
- 10 daffodils
- 10 hyacinths
- 16 tulips
- 20 grape hyacinths
- 20 crocuses
- 10 miniature iris
That’s 86 bulbs in one container!
This is an example of a densely planted display in a generously sized pot. Adjust quantities according to the actual bulb sizes and the available space.
How to Layer Your Bulbs
Step 1: Start with the largest bulbs.
Add several inches of potting mix to the bottom of the container, leaving sufficient room for roots beneath the lowest bulbs.
Position your largest bulbs, such as daffodils or tulips, near the bottom. The precise order matters less than providing appropriate planting depths and allowing the bulbs enough space to grow.
Step 2: Add another layer of potting mix.
Cover the first bulbs completely before adding the next layer. Stagger the bulbs so they aren’t stacked directly on top of one another whenever possible.
Step 3: Continue layering.
Add medium-sized bulbs, such as hyacinths and tulips, at suitable depths.
Step 4: Finish with the small bulbs.
Crocuses, grape hyacinths, and miniature iris belong closer to the surface.
Leave enough potting mix above each layer to cover the bulbs properly, generally around 2–3 inches for many small bulbs, depending on their size.
Step 5: Water thoroughly.
After planting, water well and allow excess water to drain away.
Step 6: Add a finishing touch.
Plant pansies, moss, or another shallow-rooted cool-season plant on the surface, or finish with decorative grit.
Step 7: Protect through winter.
Place the pot in a sheltered location and insulate it as necessary during prolonged cold spells.
Then wait for spring!
Choose Bulbs for a Succession of Color
The real secret to a successful lasagna pot is selecting bulbs that bloom at different times.
Early crocuses and miniature iris can begin the show, followed by daffodils, hyacinths, and finally tulips. For a coordinated display, I like combining complementary colors rather than choosing every color imaginable. Blue grape hyacinths look wonderful beneath yellow daffodils, while pink tulips paired with white hyacinths create a softer, more romantic effect.
You can also choose varieties that bloom simultaneously for a single spectacular burst of color. There are no rigid rules. Experiment and discover combinations that appeal to you.
What to Do with Bulbs After Flowering
Once the flowers fade, you have several options.
Replant in the garden. Daffodils, crocuses, grape hyacinths, and many smaller bulbs often establish well in garden beds. Leave the foliage intact until it naturally yellows so the bulbs can replenish their stored energy.
Keep them in their containers. Some bulbs can remain in pots for another year, provided they receive suitable care and the containers are protected from excessive moisture and winter cold.
Compost them. I frequently treat container tulips as annuals because their second-year performance is often less impressive. After enjoying their spectacular spring display, I compost the spent bulbs and start fresh in fall.
There is absolutely no shame in that!
If you intend to save bulbs for future flowering, feed them while the foliage is still green and actively growing, following the fertilizer label. Removing spent flowers also prevents energy from being diverted into seed production.
A Little Work in Fall, a Big Reward in Spring
There is something wonderfully optimistic about planting bulbs. You tuck these unremarkable little packages into the soil just as the garden is winding down, trusting that months later they will produce an explosion of color. And every spring, they deliver.
Whether you plant a simple pot of fragrant hyacinths, a collection of miniature daffodils, or an elaborate layered lasagna container, the rewards are well worth the effort. So gather your pots, open a bag of potting mix, and start planting.
Spring may seem a long way off, but the time to create that beautiful display is right now.
For bulbs, I frequently turn to Longfield Gardens, one of my favorite sources for interesting varieties and quality spring-flowering bulbs.
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