

Christmas indoor plants give us a welcome breath of life during the darkest months of the year—and amaryllis is one of the brightest stars of all. Every winter I buy several new bulbs and try to coax my older ones into reblooming. With a little know‑how, these spectacular flowers can return year after year.
Amaryllis Care at a Glance
🌺 Quick Care Sidebar
Item Recommendation Best bulb size 34–36 cm (maximum stems & flowers) Pot size 1–2 inches wider than bulb Planting depth Leave top ⅓ of bulb exposed Light Bright window / full sun indoors Water Lightly at first, then when growth begins Time to bloom 7–10 weeks After flowering Grow leaves for 5–6 months Dormancy 6–8 weeks at 40–50°F Rebloom success Very high (non‑waxed bulbs) Tip: Plant 2–3 large bulbs in one heavy pot for a dramatic winter display.
My favorite go-to source on YouTube for amaryllis is Northlawn Farms.

Amaryllis bulbs are native to warm climates, so they do not require a chilling period to bloom. (Paperwhite narcissus fall into this category too.) Bulbs such as hyacinths and daffodils, however, do need cold treatment before forcing. If you’re growing those, see my post Bringing Spring In.

Why Amaryllis Is So Easy to Grow
Of all flowering bulbs, amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is one of the easiest to force into bloom. Inside every bulb is a fully formed flower embryo—just waiting for water, warmth, and light.
Native to tropical South America, amaryllis comes in a dazzling range of colors: red, white, pink, salmon, and orange, plus striped, bi‑color, double‑flowered, miniature, and exotic “butterfly” forms. Their huge blooms and reliable performance make them unbeatable winter mood‑lifters.

Loose Amaryllis bulbs blooming at a local nursery: The bulbs are so easy to grow-even out of soil
Choosing the Best Amaryllis Bulb
Bigger really is better.
Amaryllis bulbs are storage vessels—the more stored energy, the more flowers you’ll get. Always choose the largest, firmest bulb you can find.
Pre‑potted bulbs sold at big box stores are convenient, but they’re usually smaller (26–30 cm circumference) and often produce only one flower stalk. Larger bulbs (34 cm+) are older, cost a bit more, and reward you with more stems and more flowers that last longer.
I’d rather pay for blooms than packaging.
What bulb size determines
- 26–28 cm – 1 stem (occasionally 2), 3–4 flowers
- 28–30 cm – 2 stems, 3–4 flowers per stem
- 30–32 cm – 2–3 stems, 3–4 flowers per stem
- 32–34 cm – 2–3 stems, 4–5 flowers per stem
- 34–36 cm – 3 stems, 4–5 flowers per stem
If possible, look for a bulb with a visible flower bud emerging. That means it’s ready to bloom within about 5–7 weeks.

A range of sizes of bulbs will give you various bloom sizes and numbers

Preparation for Planting

Quick Amaryllis Facts
- Planting period: October–April
- Flowering season: Late December–May
- Time to bloom: 7–10 weeks
- Flower stalks: 2–3 per bulb (large bulbs)
- Storage for unplanted bulbs: 40–50°F (cool, dark)
- More impact: Plant 2–3 bulbs per pot
- Pre‑potted bulbs: Usually smaller, fewer flowers
Preparing Bulbs for Planting
To jump‑start growth, soak the roots (not the entire bulb) in lukewarm water for 1–3 hours before planting. Amaryllis roots are often very dry and appreciate the hydration.
If you can’t plant right away, store bulbs at 40–50°F to prevent premature sprouting.
Planting Amaryllis: Step‑by‑Step
- Choose a pot only 1–2 inches wider than the bulb.
- Use a heavy container (ceramic is ideal) to prevent toppling.
- Plant in moist, high‑quality potting mix, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed.
- Water lightly once, then wait until growth begins before watering again.
- Place in a bright, sunny window.
To speed blooming: bottom heat (such as a heating mat) works wonders.

Ordering my Amaryllis bulbs from Longfield Gardens in January means that I receive a heat pack that keeps the bulbs from freezing. If you cannot plant the bulbs immediately after receiving them, store them at a cool temperature between 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature keeps them from blooming before you are ready.

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- Keep in a sunny spot and keep moist and you will be surprised how fast the flower will appear
- Once flowers appear, if you want the flowers to last longer, keep in a cooler spot
- Each year that you keep your Amaryllis alive, it will get larger and produce offsets (tiny bulbs that will get larger); These can be gently pulled off and pot up for a new plant

Leave about 1/3 of the top of the bulb uncovered 
Fill in with fresh moss for a finished look 
Tying and staking a ‘Red Lion’ Amaryllis keeps the flower stalk from flopping



A Note About Waxed Amaryllis Bulbs
Waxed bulbs are increasingly common—and I avoid them.
Once they bloom, they cannot be saved or rebloomed. The wax prevents proper root growth, and I’ve consistently seen weak, stunted flowers.
Fun as novelties, yes. Long‑term plants? No.


From my experience with waxed bulbs, I won’t be buying these again!
You can safely start Amaryllis until April, so there is no rush for these to bloom!

How to Rebloom Your Amaryllis Next Year
Don’t throw your bulb away after flowering (unless it’s waxed).
1. After flowering
- Cut off spent flowers.
- Leave the flower stalk until it yellows naturally.
- Treat the plant like a houseplant.
2. Grow the leaves
- For at least 5–6 months, allow leaves to grow freely. This rebuilds the bulb’s energy.
- I simply move my pots outdoors in summer and let rain do the watering.
3. Induce dormancy (early fall)
When leaves yellow:
- Cut them back to 2 inches.
- Remove the bulb from soil.
- Clean gently.
Store in a cool, dark place at 40–50°F for 6–8 weeks.
⚠️ Do not store near apples—the gas they release can sterilize bulbs.
(You can also leave bulbs dry in their pots instead.)
4. Replant
- After dormancy, replant like a new bulb and begin watering. Use dilute fertilizer since stored nutrients are depleted.
- For a dramatic display, I often pot three bulbs together.
A Final Note on Bloom Timing
In nature, amaryllis blooms in spring, not December. Christmas blooms are the result of greenhouse scheduling. If your rebloomed bulb flowers later in winter or early spring, that’s perfectly normal—and just as lovely.
You can plant amaryllis bulbs safely through April, so there’s no rush.

Bulbs shown in this post were supplied by Longfield Gardens and were excellent quality.

Claire Jones is a Maryland-based garden designer, horticulturist, and writer with more than 30 years of hands-on experience. She is the author of The Beekeeper’s Field Guide and the forthcoming The Garden Bible (HarperCollins, October 2026), and the creator of the gardening blog The Garden Diaries.



Great article. Could you send me a catalog next fall? Thanks, John
Love this information and will save it to help me grow these beautiful flowers. Thanks Claire.
My friend gave me one Amaryllis bulb from her garden that gave me a gorgeous red and white double bloom and continues to have offsprings. Wonderfully hardy. Would love to grow some of the ones you’ve shown here, like the Evergreen. Wow! Thanks for the great photos and information.
Enjoy all your posts. Keep them coming.
La Paz, pictured in your article IS a smaller bulb. Just saying.
Great inspiration!!
Can you put me on your catalog!
Colleen, All you need to do is sign up with your email in the right hand column. I can’t sign you up from here.
This is great–thanks! You’ve convinced me to try them again. I’ve received them as gifts in the past, but never attempted to save and replant them. They are fun to have around at the holidays and early winter.