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Amaryllis For Years to Come

Amaryllis 'Minvera', one of my favorites

Red Lion, Apple Blossom, and Minerva- a great trip of Amaryllis from Longfield Gardens
‘Red Lion’, ‘Apple Blossom’, and ‘Minerva’- a great trio of Amaryllis from Longfield Gardens
Great used as a cut flower, Amaryllis ‘Splash’, from Longfield Gardens

Christmas indoor plants give us a welcome breath of life during the darkest months of the year—and amaryllis is one of the brightest stars of all. Every winter I buy several new bulbs and try to coax my older ones into reblooming. With a little know‑how, these spectacular flowers can return year after year.

Amaryllis Care at a Glance

🌺 Quick Care Sidebar

Item Recommendation
Best bulb size 34–36 cm (maximum stems & flowers)
Pot size 1–2 inches wider than bulb
Planting depth Leave top ⅓ of bulb exposed
Light Bright window / full sun indoors
Water Lightly at first, then when growth begins
Time to bloom 7–10 weeks
After flowering Grow leaves for 5–6 months
Dormancy 6–8 weeks at 40–50°F
Rebloom success Very high (non‑waxed bulbs)

Tip: Plant 2–3 large bulbs in one heavy pot for a dramatic winter display.

My favorite go-to source on YouTube for amaryllis is Northlawn Farms.

Amaryllis ‘Minerva’ at Longwood Gardens

Amaryllis bulbs are native to warm climates, so they do not require a chilling period to bloom. (Paperwhite narcissus fall into this category too.) Bulbs such as hyacinths and daffodils, however, do need cold treatment before forcing. If you’re growing those, see my post Bringing Spring In.

An unusual Amaryllis bloom

Why Amaryllis Is So Easy to Grow

Of all flowering bulbs, amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is one of the easiest to force into bloom. Inside every bulb is a fully formed flower embryo—just waiting for water, warmth, and light.

Native to tropical South America, amaryllis comes in a dazzling range of colors: red, white, pink, salmon, and orange, plus striped, bi‑color, double‑flowered, miniature, and exotic “butterfly” forms. Their huge blooms and reliable performance make them unbeatable winter mood‑lifters.

Loose Amaryllis bulbs blooming at a local nursery: The bulbs are so easy to grow-even out of soil

Choosing the Best Amaryllis Bulb

Bigger really is better.

Amaryllis bulbs are storage vessels—the more stored energy, the more flowers you’ll get. Always choose the largest, firmest bulb you can find.

Pre‑potted bulbs sold at big box stores are convenient, but they’re usually smaller (26–30 cm circumference) and often produce only one flower stalk. Larger bulbs (34 cm+) are older, cost a bit more, and reward you with more stems and more flowers that last longer.

I’d rather pay for blooms than packaging.

What bulb size determines

If possible, look for a bulb with a visible flower bud emerging. That means it’s ready to bloom within about 5–7 weeks.

A range of sizes of bulbs will give you various bloom sizes and numbers

A jumbo Amaryllis is 34 -36 cm per bulb

Preparation for Planting

To get a head start soak the Amaryllis bulbs for an hour in warm water to hydrate the roots

Quick Amaryllis Facts


Preparing Bulbs for Planting

To jump‑start growth, soak the roots (not the entire bulb) in lukewarm water for 1–3 hours before planting. Amaryllis roots are often very dry and appreciate the hydration.

If you can’t plant right away, store bulbs at 40–50°F to prevent premature sprouting.

Planting Amaryllis: Step‑by‑Step

  1. Choose a pot only 1–2 inches wider than the bulb.
  2. Use a heavy container (ceramic is ideal) to prevent toppling.
  3. Plant in moist, high‑quality potting mix, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed.
  4. Water lightly once, then wait until growth begins before watering again.
  5. Place in a bright, sunny window.

To speed blooming: bottom heat (such as a heating mat) works wonders.

Ordering my Amaryllis bulbs from Longfield Gardens in January means that I receive a heat pack that keeps the bulbs from freezing. If you cannot plant the bulbs immediately after receiving them, store them at a cool temperature between 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature keeps them from blooming before you are ready.

‘White Nymph’ Amaryllis from Longfield Gardens
Amaryllis bulbs can also be planted in mixed containers to make the growing bulb more interesting  Amaryllis Containers
This container has a very old Amaryllis that keeps on getting larger and larger every year
Amaryllis used as a cut flower in a vase, from Longfield Gardens

A Note About Waxed Amaryllis Bulbs

Waxed bulbs are increasingly common—and I avoid them.

Once they bloom, they cannot be saved or rebloomed. The wax prevents proper root growth, and I’ve consistently seen weak, stunted flowers.

Fun as novelties, yes. Long‑term plants? No.

A waxed bulb seen at Lowes
Stunted flowers are blooming right at the neck of a waxed bulb

From my experience with waxed bulbs, I won’t be buying these again!

You can safely start Amaryllis until April, so there is no rush for these to bloom!

Evergreen Amaryllis from Longfield Gardens

How to Rebloom Your Amaryllis Next Year

Don’t throw your bulb away after flowering (unless it’s waxed).

1. After flowering

2. Grow the leaves

3. Induce dormancy (early fall)

When leaves yellow:

Store in a cool, dark place at 40–50°F for 6–8 weeks.

⚠️ Do not store near apples—the gas they release can sterilize bulbs.

(You can also leave bulbs dry in their pots instead.)

4. Replant

A Final Note on Bloom Timing

In nature, amaryllis blooms in spring, not December. Christmas blooms are the result of greenhouse scheduling. If your rebloomed bulb flowers later in winter or early spring, that’s perfectly normal—and just as lovely.

You can plant amaryllis bulbs safely through April, so there’s no rush.

‘Rosy Star’ Amaryllis from Longfield Gardens

Bulbs shown in this post were supplied by Longfield Gardens and were excellent quality.

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